Luz Maria tells of her experience walking the Camino de Santiago.
Hub Staff
Luz Maria Alvarez Wilson had long wanted to walk the Camino de Santiago and at the age of 62 she did, 800 kilometres in 40 days, by herself. “It was an aspiration I had for many, many years, since I was a child,” she said.
Wilson took what’s referred to as the French Way, starting in France, St. Jean Pied de Port, and heading west to Santiago de Compostela, Spain. “There are five different [Camino] routes,” said Wilson, adding that the route she chose is a popular one because “it has all the infrastructure that you need - the hostels, the accommodations, the paths are very, very well taken care of.”
Wilson, who is originally from Mexico City, worked in Diplomatic Service in varying capacities in Canada, United States, Jamaica and Mexico, and eventually retired in Southampton with her partner, Charles.
She was at the Port Elgin United Church on May 2 to share the experience of her pilgrimage with those in attendance.
The Camino de Santiago, sometimes referred to as the Way of St. James, is a popular pilgrimage for people from all over the world, from different backgrounds, who embark on the journey for religious as well as spiritual reasons. “Somehow they feel they need to find themselves, to do something challenging that will confront them and their fears,” said Wilson who added that the number of pilgrims grows substantially each year.
In terms of men and women, pilgrams are roughly half and half, with men coming in at a slightly higher percentage, and many of the women "were single women travelling by themselves of all ages,” said Wilson. The walk is also popular for couples and over half of the pilgrims, 60 percent, are 60 years of age or older, while 55 percent are between 30 and 60 years of age.
“I met an Italian man who was 84 years old... and a Dutch lady who was doing her seventh walk and she was 82,” said Wilson. “So I think I can do it... many times.” People do the path by foot, by bicycle, by horse or by wheelchair.
Wilson said that some believe there are cosmic energies at work as you walk, as the path itself “follows the same parallel as the Milky Way,” so when you walk the path at night, “you can see that beautiful sky that really leads your way.”
On the first day Wilson recalls walking, in just 27 kilometres, over 1,200 meters up, from 300 meters above sea level to 1,570 meters above sea level. “So it was up and up and up and up and up,” she said. “But it was very gratifying to see the beautiful, absolutely beautiful views from up there.” A slide show served as a backdrop, which helped to illustrate the tales she shared with the captivated audience.
After her initial ascent, Wilson descended into Spain and soon found herself in a beautiful forest that, she said, reminded her of the mythology and stories she learned as a child. “The magic of the forest comes to you,” said Wilson, adding that as you become aware of your surroundings “you can see everything in all of its magnificence. To become aware of the wind, the birds, the trees, the sun, the light, everything becomes so pristine.”
Wilson added that there was also “free wine everywhere, constantly.”
Wilson shared tales of sun and rain and double rainbows; churches and monasteries and monuments; political strife and histories she had learned; cities and cafes and museums that she loved; public markets where she would purchase her day’s supplies; and city centers bustling with children and music and even the occasional wedding.
And of course, abandoned boots. “I was so lucky to have the right gear and the right boots... you see so many abandoned boots all broken down... I cannot imagine how they continued because it’s in the middle of nowhere really so your gear is very important,” said Wilson.
Boots seem to be a signature of many people’s journey on the Camino. There are ample images of boots associated with the Camino de Santiago - left behind on a stump or a rock, on someone’s feet, resting against a wall or dangling from a backpack - in all states of wear and tear - muddy boots, pristine boots barely broken in, wet boots, boots so totally wrecked that they look as though they can’t possibly take one more step.
In fact, Wilson said boots are often how you are identified among your fellow pilgrims. When you arrive at a hostel, the first thing you do is leave your boots and the presence tells your fellow travellers that you have arrived. “They don’t look you by the name, they look you by the boots,” said Wilson. “‘Oh yeah, Maria is here because her boots are here.’”
Wilson didn’t always stay on the path well travelled; and during one of her diversions she found herself in the Monastery of Samos. “An absolutely stunning place, hidden in the middle of nowhere,” she said. It was here that Wilson found herself in the presence of a monk who, she discovered, was not only her age but had grown up in the same neighbourhood as she had in Mexico City.
“It was unbelievable, it was a great experience to be with him and he invited us to stay for dinner and be part of the Gregorian mass,” said Wilson.
Throughout her journey, Wilson made friends from all over the world, many of whom she keeps in touch with today. “You make a connection with them at a deeper level for whatever reason, you know, maybe you won’t see them again but they are permanently with you in that moment and the relationship becomes so real and it’s difficult to forget them,” said Wilson. “I see their picture and I remember the person and the talks we had and it really makes me thankful.”
But one image seemed to capture the essence of what Wilson’s experience taught her. It was a simple image, of Wilson’s long, solo shadow on the road in front as she walked, with the sun low in the sky behind her. “I think what I learned in this particular walk was that I could walk alone, by myself, and discover myself and be with myself without any problem which I think is a wonderful accomplishment. When you are satisfied with your life and you are with yourself and you are at peace, what a gift.”
